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Okay I have a CBR600F4 it’s a 99 model. Every time I start the bike the main fuse blows(30) I was told it was a bad wire or improperly grounded wire and to check the grounds. Instead of doing so I completely bought a brand new harness for the whole bike and reinstalled it with the new grounds in proper place. Before changing the harness the bike would blow the fuse when the key was turned to the on position. You could turn off the kill switch and the lights on the dash would show and you could hear the fuel pump running for some odd reason while the key wasn’t even activated yet. With this being said now with the new harness it blows the (30w) fuse just as soon as the positive terminal is connected even if the key isn’t in the ignition. The only two wires that go from the starter relay are a negative battery wire and a negative starter wire I believe. Could I need a new starter or starter relay? Or could it be the rectifier? Please help this is getting really pricey and I don’t wanna keep ordering new parts for the bike just to troubleshoot.

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  • Motorcycles Master
  • 5,907 Answers

There is a short circuit that wasn't caused by the wiring harness but is caused by either something wrongly connected or by a faulty component.

The advice above is good but I suggest you begin by obtaining a wiring diagram and ensure every wire is going to where it is meant to go as a first and very important measure.

The bike probably has a negative ground system so the negative battery post would go to the frame, etc. and a battery positive would go to the starter relay or solenoid.

Posted on Oct 11, 2019

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  • Expert
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Thanks for the details, they do help. Is there a way you can disconnect different electrical circuits from the battery? Like Disconnect the lights, horn, or other components then start adding them back until you find the circuit or group of wires that causes the short. Because it seems you have a short somewhere, or something really putting a load on that 30 Amp fuse. So I'd break the circuits down to smaller pieces so that when you reconnect the lights, or starter, or whatever....that the fuse pops and you know the circuit causing the issue. You may have to open engine components like a magneto to isolate the circuits. But it shouldn't cost you anything except time.

Posted on Oct 11, 2019

  • John Oct 11, 2019

    Lights are disconnected

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Anonymous

  • 10 Answers

SOURCE: 30 amp main fuse blows when the key is turned on.

Can be "nasty problem, for it can mean DEATH, if as you attempt traffic manouvre & it blows !-(As safety precaution , & this TIP would be useful to most all Bikers>Call to friendly POLARIS ATV Dealer & ask for Automatic Re Settable 20 AMP PROTECTOR ( tHIS FITS THE 500 sPORTSMAN A T V & as far back as the 350L 2 Cycle Firebreathing A T V ()Standard Equipment )-Wire that in from POSITIVE Supply on to your loom, & attch its earth ( Negative cable to NEGATIVE > - on Your Battery!--That done, procede to your RecRegulator Unit &Examine Likely "Melting of Delrin (Nyloc, White looking plastic connector plug to terminals of Rectifier/Regulator , Test Output from Alternator., Ensure ALL Eaths have been attended properly, by Unscrewing, & Shining through the Paintwork Refit, tighten & Apply Silicone Sealant ( So that when You "Power Clean" the Motorcycle You wont be "Degrading the EARTHS again!--Now Ride!--If the Loom Loom, near steering head happens to "Short out" The POLARIS Re Settable Fuse Link & Sealed in waterproof covering, will Re Set & then You get chance to further investigate at Your workshop!!Arm yourself with Voltohmyst , or Multimeter OOR mini pointer that can sense Current Flowing, check out ALL Swithes ( Disconnect rear brake light switch & front one by way of unplugging supply leads ( Just possible that You have intermittant short in one of them!--Did You happen to note IF You were turning slightly to Left or Right when Fuse Blew?--Well, look then for "Stress areas for wiring looms, as at Steering Head Stem region, Open the Sheath with Razor Blade & attempt to pull wires apart slightly , then EXAMINE RFOR>bare leads !---With Multimeter You could slowly "ISOLATE" components & IF You had reference to WIRING CHART You then could Painstakingly TRACE EACK LEAD & ENSURE it has no "LEAKAGE "--Best Of Luck & "StayUpright" -Des.

Posted on Jan 17, 2009

fordexpert

  • 5692 Answers

SOURCE: 2000 Grand Voyager blowing the ignition fuse

Was the old fuel pump bad? It might be worth the cost to replace the ignition switch. The wires to the fuel pump would be a second guess if the old pump was bad and burnt the wires before the fuse went. When you eliminated the fuel pump you also eliminated the wires to the pump and it started. Then you replaced the pump, but not the wires. The ignition switch is the other end of the circuit.

Posted on Jun 08, 2009

Fandob

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: 2002 ford escort zx2 negative ground harness

I am about to have the same problem with my 2002 ZX2. My shop called the Ford dealer and they can replace it for $450.00...
seems like an awful lot for a battery cable.
JS

Posted on Jan 21, 2010

Anonymous

  • 36 Answers

SOURCE: Ignition Fuse blowing Honda Sabre VT1100

YOU ANSWERED YOU"RE OWN QUESTION,SWITCH,AND RELAY,LOL

Posted on Apr 05, 2010

dttech

dttech

  • 4803 Answers

SOURCE: the horn doesn't blow. at

Your problem is most likely a defective clockspring assembly. This is also called "spiral cable assembly" it is located just under the steering wheel on the steering column and makes the connection between the main wiring harness and the circuits for the air bag and the horn. I cannot give you wire colors because your question did not mention year, make, model, engine size or whether the vehicle is equipped with cruise control or not. (cruise control makes a difference in the clockspring assembly used on your car.)

Anyway, the air bag and steering wheel has to be removed to fix it.

Posted on Dec 19, 2010

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i9ndicates that you have dead short problem in a component in the ignition system
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If you turn on your ignition switch and immediately blow a fuse you have a hard/dead short and is usually easy to find. With a test light connected to the hot side of the blown fuse holder start stabbing the wire/s that leads away from the fuse holder and towards the ignition switch, you test light will illuminate validating the short. When the test light fails to illuminate you have passed the short and need to back up until the test light illuminates, then look in the immediate area for the short.
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