Hi, Thass64 before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.
To do this with a meter: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator.
3. On the other part of the disconnected regulator plug. Set the multimeter for Ohms x1 scale and measure for resistance across the pins of the stator. You should read something around 0.1 to 0.2 ohms for a 32 amp system.
4. Then check for continuity between each pin on the plug and frame/engine ground. The meter needle should not move (infinite resistance)(digitals will show infinite resistance) if the meter needle does move (indicating continuity)(digitals will show some resistance), recheck very carefully. If the meter still shows continuity to ground the stator is shorted (bad).
5. Set the meter to read A/C volts higher than 30 volts (the scale setting for voltage should always be higher than the highest voltage you expect or you may fry the meter). Start the bike, and measure from one pin to the other on the plug (DO NOT cross the multimeter probes! - touch them to each other). You should read roughly 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm.
6. If the battery was good under load test, if the stator is NOT shorted to ground, and the stator is putting out A/C voltage, then the regulator is bad (most likely even if passed step 2)
For more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. How to Fully Troubleshoot Your Motorcycles Charging System MotorcycleMD HOW TO CHECK YOUR CHARGING SYSTEM and CHANGING the STATOR and REGULATOR... https://www.manualslib.com/manual/816746/Suzuki-Vs700-1985.html#product-Intruder%20VS https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki
madaming pwedeng posibilidad yan, poor compression, poor spark, poor combustion. Check mo muna yung carburador niya.. dapat ang ikot ng fuel-air mixture e 2.5 turns out. Tanggalin mo yung air box at linisan yung filter nito.. tro mo din patagbuhin panandalian na walang air filter.. kasi pwede barado na ang intake nito. Check mo spark plug at siguraduhing malinis pa ito. Panigurado e palitan mo nalang ng bago.. check mo din na dumadaloy na maayos yung fuel papunta carburador.
kung ayaw mga to, pa-compression check mo para masuri ito ng maigi baka kasi maluwag na yung piston rings or piston nito.
parate naman kung sakaling natulungan ka nito salamat
Hi, Tshoukas before diagnosing any brake light issue always check the bulb and fuse first for integrity a brake light staying on is usually caused by the front brake light switch, which is mechanical, not disengaging. On early models moving the throttle control housing closer to the front brake master cylinder is the main fix. On late models, the switch gets tweaked and needs to be realigned. A brake light that does not come on when the brake lever is applied can be caused by a faulty switch or no continuity in the wiring at the switch. The rear brake light switch is hydraulic and it is extremely rare to malfunction in a closed circuit condition causing the brake light to stay on. Usually, rear brake light switch issues are caused by no brake pedal free play or a sticky rear master cylinder piston. A brake light that does not come on when the rear brake pedal is depressed can be caused by a faulty switch, air contamination in the brake line, or no continuity in the wiring at the switch. Finally, most tail light wiring harnesses run under the rear fender held in place by spot welded clips. Worn out rear shocks or lowered suspension can bottom out causing the rear tire to come in contact with the wiring harness, rubbing the insulation off, exposing the bare metal inner core, allowing it to break or short out.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/showthread.php?104686-Brake-light-stays-on https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6VcP1HlIByE https://www.manualslib.com/manual/955385/Piaggio-Carnaby-125.html https://www.oemmotorparts.com/oem2.asp?M=piaggio https://absolutelyscooters.net/pdf/CGEN_dawg_scooter_manual.pdf